Day 18 Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite

Ennerdale Water

Another long day ahead, with fine weather predicted and blue skies from the bedroom window all looked in order.

The walk out of Ennerdale Bridge to Ennerdale Water is along a back road, not that interesting until you arrive, quite suddenly, to the lake. It’s a long stretch of water that today was almost mirror like.

Last time, due to the weather we took the northern bank. Today it’s the southern, past Robin Hood’s Chair, climbing and falling with some pretty interesting narrow ledges to negotiate, with some big drops into the Water.

At the end of Ennerdale Water, we cross the Ennerdale River and pick up the road that goes all the way to The Black Sail YHA, a remote YHA that has the reputation for good food and a fine wine collection.

Black Sail YHA

We see none of that, as that part is closed off when we get there. It does look pretty neat though.

We pause here for drink and a muesli bar, holding lunch until we finish our climb up Loft Beck.

Loft Beck is a valley that allows access to the top of the ridge, Grey Knotts. It is steep and follow a creek.

This proves very slow and challenging, as at this point Jo started to feel dizzy, light headed and wobbly on her feet.

Loft Beck

We do 10 metres at a time, stop, sit, wait, then move on. It is slow and finally we make the top where I come up with the idea that I take Jo’s pack. Not sure why we didn’t think of that earlier, as after that we go more quickly and Jo starts to feel better.

Contouring around Grey Knotts we pick up the old tramway that serviced the slate mine and follow that all the way to the Honister Slate Mine Centre where we have a drink, pause, watch the many MAMIL’s on bikes, then set off again, now all downhill.

Eventually, we get to the Derwent River, which we cross near the Rosthwaite YHA and get to Nook Farm, our accommodation.

We have a pretty good room overlooking the farm yard.

It’s a short walk to the Scafell Pub where we enjoy a few of the local beers and a nice meal. Jo has trout.

It’s been a long day, 24 km over some pretty tough terrain.

Tomorrow a shorter day, though the weather isn’t so good.