Day 13 Fort William to Edinburgh.

Great night’s sleep, at last. Managed to get the temperature right!

Today we’re off to Edinburgh on the bus, via Glasgow. It’s 3 hours to Glasgow and another hour to Edinburgh for the last day of the Festival.

The journey is very picturesque along the banks of Loch Lomond for much of the way and often paralleling the West Highland Way.

A quick changeover at Glasgow where there is some confusion about our bus booking as Trip 923 is to Belfast not Edinburgh! We get on the 900 instead and it goes the right way dumping us in mid Edinburgh to the sounds of the 1812 Overture, rehearsal for the fireworks tonight.

We need to trudge across to the Royal Mile to find our hostel and after some geographical confusion we find we are just 30 m off that thoroughfare.

Our room however is tiny with double bunks and HOT. I am typing this in the courtyard outside our room as it’s far cooler BUT is where the smokers are! Bugger.

There are fireworks tonight to celebrate the end of the Festival along with music as mentioned before including the 1812 Overture, so we head off to try and get a free view, however it starts to rain and we are very poorly prepared, so we retreat to the Hostel.

It is still hot in our room, in spite of an open window, all night.

Day 12 Fort William

It’s off to Malaig on the Jacobite Express today, across the viaduct made famous in the Harry Potter series on the train to Hogwarts.

Unfortunately, we are on the wrong side to get the proper view (it’s the left hand side for anyone who wants to know).

It’s a queue for the tickets, as we couldn't 

Crappy picture of train

book on-line and then onto the train with lots of others. It’s full in fact.

Across from us is an elderly Japanese man who tells us that Harry Potter is huge in Japan, so much so they are building a theme park based on him. You can see why JK Rowling is worth over 1 billion dollars.

The trip is a gentle two hour journey to the port of Malaig that joins with the ferry to Skye which we can see just across the straights or whatever it is.

The village is pretty small and makes its living out of tourists and fishing I would guess. More places to eat than houses.

The train home seems faster, maybe it’s downhill? The countryside is simply stunning, green with the colours of the heather.

Our Japanese friend who had got off the train at the station near the viaduct so he could walk to it and take some pictures re-joined us and seemed to have had a good day.

He though Jo looked like Dame Kiri?

They hold a lottery on the train, first prize being a bottle of scotch, I won second prize, two bottles of local ale.

I gave one to our friend who was facing the overnight sleeper to London! I thought it might help him sleep.

Day 11 Kinlochleven to Fort William.

Sleep is fitful, the rooms are just too hot and it’s with the windows open that we final get some sleep.

This is a class B and B with a huge variety of cereals and berries for breakfast along with the cooked Scottish if you want. Truly the most impressive of our time so far.

A bleak start, and it only got worse

The day is overcast with the sky just above our heads as we set off. No rain jackets yet, however the weather threatens all the time.

The rain finally comes down and we give and get covered up. All a bit too late really as we have been getting a slow soaking as we walked along anyway.

The scenery would be good if we could see it, with low cloud and mist all along the way.

Today was to be a 24 km marathon, and we planned to stop every eight km for a break.

Well the rain put a stop to that with us just ploughing along, pausing only to empty the bladder.

The weather was so bad few pictures were taken!!

Full Scottish weather

Funnily, about 12 midday the sun came out in full force, then went to be followed by rain again.

By this time we were in view of Ben Nevis, well we could see its rump, but bugger-all else.

The finish was on roads, for the last 4 km which is pretty crappy, but that’s life.

The Finish

Luckily our B and B was on the road into town and we presented ourselves at 12.30 PM like drowned rats and over 3 hours before our bags arrived.

Jo had the foresight to put in some dry clothes to change into, I sat while I had to sit there cold and damp, sulking!!

We found a nice Thai place for dinner, which was a great change from the rather stodgy Scottish fare.

Tomorrow a train journey and no walking!!

Dy 10 Glencoe to Kinlochleven

Kingshouse Inn

Looking out in the morning and it was certainly bleak, wet and looked like rain or was raining!! Damn.

Breakfast undertaken, we stick to continental mostly, with an occasional egg thrown in. The full Scottish is just too much to even contemplate. My liver goes into a conupction fit just reading the various bits.

Pack up, get our gear together and finally head out.

It is bleak, but no rain. In fact there is no rain all day and we walk in sunshine part f the day AND it is quite warm.

Devil's Staircase

The first part is quite flat just off the A82 to Glasgow, it then heads off for a major climb of about 350m up what is called the Devil’s Staircase. It’s a short hard pitch to a saddle and them mostly downhill all the way to Kinlochleven, sometimes very steeply downhill.

We pass some penstock lines, some of which are pluming leaks, until we finally reach the River Leven and the turbine house and the village. Somehow it is associated with Rio Tinto Alcan and involved in aluminium smelting.

A beer and a cider with lunch goes down well, as we have walked without break since just before nine and it is now after 12 PM.

Our accommodation is open, though we have beaten our bags again. It’s by far the most luxurious we have had so far, a 4 star B and B.

Kinlochleven gets our once over, having a very impressive climbing wall and ice-climbing wall set-up.

There’s a pub right next door to our accommodation and some pan-fried salmon looks the go!

Tomorrow 24 km and the finish at Fort William.

Day 9 Inveroran to Kingshouse Hotel Glencoe.

Another shorter day, only 15 km mostly along “Parliament Roads” commissioned in 1803 to make travel faster and safer.

Parliamentary Roads

For the walker this means cobblestones which are quite hard to walk on.

Hard walking

Today also we cross Rannoch Moor, a place called variously dreek, bleak, desolate and boring.

The weather, remaining kind made this a pleasant stroll, albeit with the cobblestones, and once again we arrived prior to our luggage.

A beer and lunch in the sun, a lie down as our rooms were available.
At dinner the bar is crowed with a group of 16 walkers who appeared from nowhere and are boisterously happy.
They are heading for Fort William too.
Tomorrow the forecast is for rain!
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Day 8 Tyndrum to Inveroran

Tyndrum chainsaw massacre

Another fine day, sunny and not a hint of rain-we are blessed.
The path out of Tyndrum takes us past some carvings done with a chainsaw, then along the river valley, still climbing, though quite gently.
We go under the railway line, which then takes a huge loop along the gradient, with a fine arched bridge. My picture doesn’t do it justice.

Railway viaduct

We then follow the rail line for some time, cross it once more and then again as we enter Bridge of Orchy, which boasts a pub and a few houses and bugger all else. They do make quite a nice coffee though.
We then cross the River Orchy, surprisingly, and start to climb more steeply around a large spur that finally ends at a saddle and our descent to Inveroran and the Inveroran Hotel.
We are, luckily on the ground floor, as most of the rooms at pubs are on the first floor up steep stairs.
It’s cosy yet comfortable.
We arrived early, before our main luggage so took a walk back to the nearby Loch Tulla, yet were thwarted by the track running into a dead-end at the loch edge.
Back to the pub and our luggage, shower and a very well presented dinner without chips, much to Jo’s delight.
We share the lounge with five Swedes who are walking together and have walked all over the place as a group. They recommend Corsica.
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Day 7 Inveradennan to Tyndrum

Drover's Inn

Today was to be a long day, 20+ km to Tyndrum, initially along a river valley, climbing all the way as we leave the watershed of Loch Lomond and enter that of the River Tay (there was a very famous poem about the Bridge over the River Tay often thought to be the worst poem in history).

At Crianlarich the trail really starts to climb into pine forests and proves to be the hardest climbing so far, however as is often the way the rewards are fine views.

Turn off to Crianlarich

The pace Jo sets is quite fast and we make great time passing just about everyone who had set out before us.

It was under the rail line and across the A82 and past the half-way point of the Way, just out of Tyndrum.

Tyndrum is the biggest village so far, with a pub, a café, a supermarket of sorts and The Green Welly (that sells designer wellies up to nearly $300).

Twenty km in just over 3 ½ hours walking time

A curry of sorts (Mrs Jaspal has nothing to worry about) and then bed after what was a long foot sore day.

 

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Day 6 Rowardennan to Inverarnan

We awake to clear blue skies and the view up the loch is pretty impressive.



Loch Lomond and the path north

It is also the day we leave Loch Lomond behind BUT not just yet.

So it’s along the loch moving past Ben Lomond off to the east but  not time to climb that, as its at least a half day walk.
To start the walk is pretty easy on good wide track.
A diversion due to track catches us by surprise necessitating and climb away from the loch, which doesn’t please us that much.
The view are obscured by trees, yet after a few kilometres we get back down to the loch and finally arrive at Inversnaid, basically a hotel, and a stop point from the various loch ferries. We lunch here and on setting off find an idiot who on turning out of the car park has headed off down the WHW, over a narrow bridge and simply seems incapable of driving back. So bad is he that he almost runs off the bridge, in spite of our entreaties as to the way to turn his wheel. WE finally get him off the bridge safely, I think he was pissed!
Then starts what turns out to be quite a difficult as it’s up and down along the loch banks with many undulations, not much in themselves yet quite tiring as it’s over quite uneven ground with rock, roots and uneven track. This goes on for some time until, past Ardlui, on the opposite bank, signals the ends of the lake.
A herd of deer watch us cautiously as we amble past.
A steep climb over Cnap Mor and we are away from the Loch.
It’s then a short walk, well 4 km, to the Drovers Inn, the oldest inn in Scotland and our rooms at Inveradennan.
Nevertheless, the day has been nearly 25 km and quite tiring, especially the latter part along the loch.

Bear frightened by walkers hat!

 It’s upstairs, the Haunted Room, in a very quaint inn that is simply packed with stuffed animals, a full sized bear greeting you at reception for example.
There are swords old tartan gear and general memorabilia of Scottish origin and none of it dusted for at least 3 centuries.
The bar is simply hopping, with all the staff wearing kilts (though none too sure if they were worn in the traditional style) packed and there’s live music with a guy who sounds just like Billy Connolly.
Luckily the music doesn’t intrude into the Haunted Room, so we sleep pretty well.

Day 5 Drymen to Rowardennan

Sleep is in short supply AND it was raining when we woke, our room had skylights and rain was gently hitting them pretty steadily. The view out though looked promising.
By the time we had breakfast, the rain had stopped and we headed off in short sleeves and in sunlight.

Loch Lomond

Again, not too much pressure with a steady climb into pine forests. The highlight of the day was to be Conic Hill, a 380 m climb, with reported great view of the Loch. Which loch? Loch Lomond of course.

Instead we too an easier route to Balmaha for lunch at the pub. Gracious, lots of pub meals here.

Loch Lomond

Then began the loch-side walking through beautiful beach forest that lined the banks of the loch (I have no idea what trees they were, but beech sands pretty good) and lots of walkers and lots of dogs.
Again not too hard, with the occasional climb over spit of land jutting into the loch, with one pretty hefty hill, along the way.
After 21.5 km we made it into Rowardennan, and yet another pub, more beer and more chips. Dogs in the bar and fed from the table. My goodness.
Our room is smaller than at Dryden, and upstairs, yet fairly comfy, with good view up the Loch in the direction of our path tomorrow.
I think I have finally mastered the showers!

Day 4 Milngavie to Drymen (Drimen)

Out the window in the morning and there was nair a cloud in the sky (it was a small window).
Breakfast dealt with, bags packed and delivered to the pickup room, we were off, to Tesco’s to get some rations for the day.
Tesco’s have everything and a pretty good range of fresh rolls or sandwiches, they also have phone cards!!!
The WHW starts in the middle of the Milngavie shopping mall, with a suitable obelisk and signage (sigh).

Start West Highland Way

The start is along the banks of the Allander Water and seem to be linked to the water supply from Loch Lomond.

It’s pretty easy walking with a few river-type banks to manage, being the only real climbs, however you ARE climbing all the time, as you suddenly pop out onto a bitumen road that leads to a gate that looks down a very pretty valley, Strath Blane.

Strath Blane

The Way then picks p the water supply line again and follows it for a long way in this pleasant valley, however hits a 4 km stretch of bitumen which is tiring, however the view out over the fields t the hill around is pretty rewarding.

Finally, we get to our accommodation at Glenalva B & B, to find no one home. So its bags down and off to the pub and a few cleansings ales. Problem is, the pub’s a mile away so it a bit of a struggle home after a few pints under the belt.
Glenalva is neat spacious but as usual up-stairs. Alison, our host is charming, and offers to take us to the oldest pub in Scotland for dinner, the …….. We arrive in the nick of time as t’s Friday, and the dining room is filling and people are streaming in the door, looking for a table.
We have a very acceptable Australian Shiraz, One Chain, and a slightly less spectacular salad and chips. Everything comes with chips as a choice, and they don’t know how to make chips. The wine at 4 pounds 95 pence, which equates to about $9.00 a large 250ml glass is as I said pretty good, apart from the cost.
We saw a Jacobs Creek for about 17 pound 95 pence, which equates to $32 a bottle, egad!!
It’s a mile back to base and sleep, as we have a 23 km day ahead of us. Before sleep, I try my new Tesco phone card, it doesn’t work, and the phone won’t recognise it!! Turns out my phone is still locked!! Bugger. Check the internet and sort out a fix and overnight the phone is unlocked and working (in 3 days I had already used 20Mb of data @ $3 a Mb, staying with my Telstra SIM).
Today was my father’s birthday, he would have been 106!!

Day 3 Glasgow to Milngavie (Mull Guy)

We woke to a dreary day with rain hitting the window of the hotel.
Looking out from our room with a view, we could see very little due to the mist and scudding rain.
It was packing up day and moving on day, however as we had woken early it became laundry day too.
The clothes dried whilst we had breakfast and after some 30  minutes in an industrial drier a T-shirt was still damp-roo bad!!
We were then off, now in slight drizzle to catch a bus into Glasgow central to do some essential shopping, like phone cards etc. This was some exercise however finally Jo managed to get one for the O2 network. It rained on and off with some heavy showers that saw is scurrying for a “Pret a Manger”, which I can certainly recommend, for lunch, fresh rolls and more and fairly good coffee.
Wandering around Glasgow Central was interesting, however time pressed us to return to our stored baggage at the hostel and head off to Milngavie, the start of the West Highland Way.
We had decided on a taxi from the hostel to our hotel in Milngavie, as it required no effort, and it turned out the cost was pretty good and far better value than the bus or trail would have been, considering the inconvenience of getting too a bus stop r the train station.
Our overnight digs was the West Highland Gate Travel Inn, quite a nice establishment, with roomy rooms.
Tomorrow the WHW
I took no pictures today as the weather was so variable, but more importantly as I forgot my camera.

Day 1-2 Glasgow

After what seemed like quite a long wait, we had all day to contemplate our navel, we finally made it to the airport, checking in and customs completed we finally got on board and headed off. Emirates seemed quite a good airline and the staff were very attentive however the seats are quite cramped.
Nothing can really make up for cramped legroom and general lack of space however all in all the flight was not too bad to do by. Quite a long stretch nearly 13 hours and we finally arrived first thing in the morning to 32°C heat.
Surprisingly our window companion didn’t use the toilet the whole flight and managed to last well over 12 hours without going in spite of drinking quite a fair amount of fluid through the flight though no alcohol. In contrast both John and I went at least three times each.
Dubai airport is an exercise in overindulgent extravagance. Huge mauls, vast duty free store, and many, many restaurants. A huge cosmopolitan array of people moving backwards and forwards throughout the time we were there.

Dubai Duty Free

Finally our flight to Gatwick airport was called and we loaded on board and on this occasion had seats down the back just Jo and myself in a group of two only. This gave us much more room to spread and stretch and finally after another seven hours sitting we got into London.
Gatwick is London’s second airport and appears to be the stepping off point for most Londoners are heading for holidays either in Spain Cyprus Greece and other parts unknown. A huge Evan flow of people mostly in shorts and thongs and rather scantily dressed for what you’d expect in the UK. We had a four hour layover in the Gatwick and this tended to frustrate Jo quite a lot particularly as we had been awake at that stage for what seemed like two days. Luckily the flight to Glasgow was simply an hour left on time arrived on time and unloaded quite quickly. To expedite things we took a taxi into Glasgow and the YHA which is situated in a very beautiful part of Glasgow on a hill overlooking a number of cathedrals and museums.

YHA Glasgow

Our room of course is on the second floor and as with most youth hostels there are no lifts! Again as with most youth hostels the building is quite old and the floors are quite high in that the stairs are long steep and somewhat arduous after 36 hours without sleep. Our room however is quite large with twin beds and overlooks the park and has great views to the west of the city.

Room with a view

The receptionist at the hostel suggested a couple of places to eat one of which included a pub which sounded like beer to us and so we headed off down through the park to one of the local pubs. Half a pint of lager later then a meal and another half pint and we both felt much better.

Then back to the hostel and collapse into bed where we slept for the best part of 10 hours, rising just in time to catch the continental breakfast provided at £4.50 at the hostel. Surprisingly the coffee albeit from an urn, was quite nice and the general selection was fairly broad.

We have decided to catch the hop on hop off bus that Glasgow has like many cities and we flagged one down prior to it in fact having started the service. The driver must have taken pity on us and stop at non-authorised stop to let us on and then having accused me of being a senior and Joe is being my sister gave us a student discount which saved us a couple of pounds. The tour, are as is the thing with these hop on hop on systems, was quite comprehensive and gave us food for thought and places to visit later. Glasgow is a surprisingly beautiful city with a huge amount of history some very lovely architecture and some very interesting buildings that have resulted from having just held the recent Commonwealth Games. The huge boatbuilding industry which once time to time had 500 boat builders is now limited to one only that being run by the BAE  Aerospace which is an odd title for a boat builder. It builds warships now.
At the end of the tour we hopped off in Glasgow Central and had a walk around the various shopping precincts and malls and then re-caught the bus and took it out to the motor and transport Museum on the doc land area. This held a comprehensive display of all things transport from prams to bicycles to motor vehicles motorbikes cars trucks trams steam trains and anything you can think of including a still hold three master which was moored in the Clyde River.

The Glenlee

After the museum it was back on the bus and then stop at the Glasgow University, Hunterian Museum, which had on display many of we Hunter’s collection and also some of his the sections and anatomical drawings which are quite remarkable for the year that is the 18^th century. It has many other items that have been given to the museum by various other donors including some artefacts from New Zealand Pacific region and one stuffed Thylacine from Tasmania.

By this time it was well after three and we thought it time to head back to the youth hostel, where we tried to it chose Sim card for her phone to work. This however was somewhat thwarted by a very poor Wi-Fi connection in the hostel and some difficulty in actually activating the Wi-Fi. Frustration dto abandonment and heading off for dinner at one of the local Indian restaurants. Surprisingly there was no beef on the restaurant menu at all and we decided on a couple of hot chicken dishes which are certainly whetted the appetite and provided us with quite a delicious meal. On enquiring of the waiter the reason for the dearth in fact the absence of beef dishes, he explained that beef in Indian restaurants is not very popular in Glasgow and that chicken or lamb and seafood are the major choices.